This was the most spectacular trip I’ve been on so far (ever)! Rounding Downpatrick Head and the Dún Briste sea stack was awesome! Looking at photos or footage of sea kayakers out in amazing places on big water, I’ve always loved the idea of being capable and comfortable doing things like that – and yesterday I achieved it!
The coastline from Lacken to Downpatrick is basically a continuous cliff, varying in height from just a few metres to many tens of metres. It’s a dark, turf-coloured stone that is very rectilinear and laid down in long, horizontal layers. The geometric nature of the rock results in features that look like ruined forts, colonnades, plazas and towers all along the coastline.
Water runoff from the land above resulted in lots of small waterfalls along the cliffs. At times it felt like being at the dawn of creation! The desolate, primal nature of the rock and the sea along with the sound of the roaring waves and the clatter of the waterfalls was really beautiful and awe-inspiring.
The weather was good – not very cold or windy – which made the trip comparatively very comfortable. I can imagine that it is tough going at other times. The swell and chop were close to the roughest I’ve been out in, and certainly the roughest in combination that I’ve experienced. Still, I wasn’t close to my comfort limit; though there was one point we went between the cliff and a sea-rock where the water got unpredictable and I had to hoof it to stay out of what could have been very problematic water.
There were lots of patches of dangerous water as we progressed along the cliffs on the outward journey, but they were easy to spot and avoid. At one point though, near an area of large breaking waves, a wave began to break much closer to us than the rest of them. It was no danger to us as we were still far enough away, but it made me realise how easily you could get into trouble even when you think you know where the danger is and that you’re safe. One thing I did think as we approached these rough patches is that I would love to be able to handle water like that. It would feel amazing to be able to stay upright and confident while being pushed around by all that whitewater!
Early on the outward trip we encountered a deep cave with a large opening in the roof. The cave was about fifteen or twenty metres high and maybe one hundred metres deep. Chris went in first and as he did, a large swell came up behind us and he disappeared behind it. It was concerning, but he came out afterwards and told us the wave doesn’t break over you inside, so myself and Beth and Evi went in as well. It was exhilarating navigating the swell and gorgeous inside – the sound was amazing as it the waves br0ke on the little stony beach at the back.
Approaching the cave 
The shore at the back of the cave Beth in the cave Beth exiting over the swell
We stopped for lunch on a very small, stony beach. It took a while to land but went fine. It was great to take a break and have some food and a hot drink. Evi brought some very nice German Christmas biscuits!
After getting back in the water (and performing a fairly poor tow and rescue of Chris, who capsized trying to take a photo!) we paddled on to Downpatrick Head and the Dún Briste sea stack.
Rounding the head was fantastic! The cliff had already increased in height to the maximum on the north side, and seeing the three outcrops as we got around to the west side was impressive. Then I realised that one of the outcrops was actually a sea stack and was blown away! I knew there was a stack at the head, but didn’t know anything about it or the scale – most of what I’d heard about the headland was to do with the passage below.
Dún Briste is absolutely beautiful, especially from the sea. From the east side the form is narrow and wonderfully articulated as its layers expand and contract up along its height. From the south it is less elegant in overall form, but the semi-regular serrations along the edges of its strata give it an almost art-deco look on its top half, which is enhanced by the warm colours of the strata and how they vary in distinct layers. It felt amazing to be there.
The huge arena-like inset in the mainland cliff that has the passage way below it is stunning too. Some of the rock strata are so thick and smooth-faced that it gives the place the feel of being over-scaled; like you’re in a giant’s environment. The sound and swell of the water is gorgeous. We couldn’t try the passage because the water was too dangerous near the cliff. I can see why Dave was only able to get in twice out of seven trips!
Downpatrick Head Rounding Downpatrick Head Dún Briste revealed! Main Downpatrick headland Looking towards the passage cave Ian and the north side of Dún Briste Dún Briste from the east Dún Briste from the south West end of Dún Briste
We rounded Dún Briste and headed straight back to Lacken Pier. It was a long slog and I would have liked to have stopped (if we’d had time – it probably would have been too late getting back if we’d tried), but I managed it without too much discomfort. I enjoyed the return trip well enough – I felt pretty adventurous, being out a few kilometres from shore on the Atlantic, in big swell and chop (big by my standards – ridiculously tame by what it can be like, I’m sure!).
While the photo to the right is not particularly good, I really like it because of the angle – it’s the only kayaking photo I’ve ever taken that has such a high vantage point, due to the height of the swell!
I was amazingly comfortable, gear-wise, compared to other trips of similar length and/or conditions. The drysuit is fantastic! It’s such a game-changer for paddling comfort. I cut the elastic strap that held the rear braces fixing. I didn’t like doing that, but the thing really dug into my back a few times and I knew that no matter what solution I go for in the end, having that plastic ring at that point was not going to work.
Cutting the strap really paid off though, because I felt no discomfort from the suit at all. So-much-so that I may not get a new rear braces anchor. I did notice that the suit had been pulled quite far into my boots by the end of the trip, and that definitely makes getting in and out of the kayak a bit more awkward than it needs to, so it might be a good idea. But in the meantime using it as-is will be totally viable.
That awkwardness getting out of the kayak in the drysuit resulted in me comically capsizing a few feet from shore at the pier when we got back. Evi was amused! My normal technique of exit/entry just won’t work reliably in the drysuit, so I’ll have to settle for the less smooth method while still semi-beached I think. It reminds me of the manatee/seal jokes with Kate and Ellis when diving!
One final thought: On the return journey I found myself moving faster than Chris and Beth and generally “at the front”. I’m not sure if that’s because I’ve gotten better, but I suspect at least part of it is the general pace not being as fast as with ECSKC. Either way, it is really nice not to be belting along trying to keep up! I’d like to think it’s cause I’m faster now, but I also like the idea that things are generally just more relaxed out west!
Other Highlights
Beth and Evi leaving the cave Swell at the cave entrance Evi, with distant waterfall Dún Briste Looking south in rare sunlight A puffin! Right in the centre 😉
